Chevy Volt Level 1 to Level 2 Charger conversion



The clipper creek stock charger that ships with popular EVs is actually a level 2 capable unit. Here’s how to unlock faster charging.

admin
  • Just a note ,you do know that this is not done to be compliant to the Canadian electrical code ,because the female receptacle is made for 120 volt 20 amps only. And just because you know what it's for doesn't make it correct for this application, yes it works but that doesn't mean its correct this is unsafe! I see this kind of thing done all the time as a electrical contractor

  • I made a naughty cord for my Chevy Bolt. 240v outlet to a 120v plug (Hot/Hot/Ground). I didn't hook up the neutral nor did I install that pin so it can plug into a range outlet or dryer. It works perfectly and I didn't have to modify the cord at all. I used a nice extension cord and cut off the male end that I didn't need. That made for a nice professional looking cord. Charges fast on 240v and cost about 25 bucks to do.

  • 14 AWG extension cord seems pretty lite; maybe too dainty if it needs
    to safely handle 30 amps in some sort of freaky fault condition…
    What AWG cord does the OEM 240V Charge Unit feature? Great video!

  • @12voltvids Do you have solar power available? How many highway vs city miles do you get off of a full charge? I would have that car full of batteries behind the rear seat, in the trunk, by the motor. Junkyards are full of them.

  • Yes, I have everyone and their brother bring me crap I never seen before to repair because God forbid they learn anything, most of the devices I never even seen before. They will say things like what does he mean when he says the charger is nothing special, it talks to the car??? What language is it using, Chinese? Dear God help me! I was building computers for people and making a fortune at it. I built this guy a computer, I placed the void warranty if opened sticker on it and his grandfather opened it and removed the power supply from the motherboard while it was running, the guy brought me the computer telling me it suddenly stopped running, really I said, who removed the sticker, oh that would be my grandfather and he only unplugged this and plugged it back in. So I had to ask why was it acting up? Nope, he was just teaching me something and when he plugged it back in there was sparks, but he said it was covered, not anymore idiot. Of course you have the right to do anything you want, you paid for it. But as I explained in person and on the bill, we had an agreement that you don't remove the cover and I will repair it free for 3 years unless there physical signs of damage, so I had to argue this with his grandfather on the phone until he tried to tell me he worked on computers in the military, but he was near 80 years old back in 2003 when he said this so I told him to take me to court and he decided to pay the bill for another motherboard. Your disclaimer is spot on. Some people are off the reservation. I tell people all the time when I'm finished and they pay me that I never seen this device before if I haven't, but I stopped when I realized I hardly know anything, I'm done giving people to much credit and making my job harder. YouTube didn't have this kind of content back in 2000 when I started. Everything was old skewl

  • The supply in you r house is biphase, you have 120V from either hot wire to neutral but 240V between the two hot wires. I did read that a lot of newer house in North America have a 120V and a 240V supply rather than biphase. The 240 in that case is a seperate circuit and neutral is earthed/grounded. Australia uses multiple earthed neutral with a neutral earth at the house. Protective and neutral earths are not allowed to be connected

  • 7kw is more than most clothes dryers, 30 amps at 240vac. A dryer cord to 30 amp receptacle will do, since it's only about 2m long. 14 ga wire is rated for 15 amps, 10 ga is 30a. So that 14ga wire might get warm? You most likely have 10ga in the wall to that socket.
    So the car does a quick charge, like 80%/first hour at 7kw? That's like drying a load. I guess slow charge takes 10-12 hours. 3kw at 120vac is still about 30 amps. The plug and socket should be heavy duty, like used for air conditioning. It's much better to use 240vac.
    Many 12vdc car batteries charge at 10a for 10+ hours (regulated to prevent overcharge). So 30a into lith-ion isn't that big a deal if well regulated, no worse than fast charging a sillyfone.
    100 miles/charge (50 mile round trip) is OK for city folk, and some stores have "pay for charge" parking spots. Cost per mile? 10kw/100 miles? That's roughly 100 watts/mile, aye?

  • I don't know anyone that uses electric cars, so i know nothing about them.

    i saw that earth pin and assumed that to be connected first.
    The other two pins must be phases or a single phase with effectively an earthed neutral return.
    Uk 240v outlets are single phase and earthed neutral plus earth, it seems to work ok 🙂

    I looked at that charge controller pcb and thought that it can't actually process the mains in any way, no heavy duty switching circuits are present.
    More like a mains voltage detector and inteligent relay controlled by the car communication.
    A smart way i think, let the car decide 😀

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *