http://www.tvrepairinfo.com/ In this video I share a few tips I’ve learned about Power Adapters and Battery Chargers.
Find out about the new smart battery chargers and what they have to offer in intelligence and design.
HELP SAVE VAPING. IT SAVES LIVES. go to http://casaa.org/How_You_Can_Help.html to SAVE VAPING!
Disclaimer: I am not associated with any of the products or brands that were shown in this video. I do not support any companies, these are only my opinions. This video is a product review.
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Chicle heads over to Columbus Circle in New York during the beginning of Moltres Day. However, Chicle’s portable battery chargers drop to zero percent and struggles to get a Shiny Moltres with a low battery on his phone. Can he catch it before it dies? Find out on an all new Pokémon GO AHEAD!
The average computer user has only a vague understanding of how their data is stored. They know they have this “hard drive thingy” inside the computer and they know that’s where their data is kept. That’s about as far as it goes for most users. Many don’t even know what a hard drive looks like.
However, when you are faced with data loss, you quickly learn a lot about hard drives. Not only do you begin to get an understanding about how complex they are, you also find out how expensive it can be to get your data back. At least once a day customers will ask “Why does it cost so much? I only paid $100 for my hard drive”. Yes, data recovery can be that expensive. My answer is simply this, if you had a million dollars sitting in a $50 safe, and you couldn’t get to it…does it really matter how much you paid for the safe? Data recovery should only be sought, if the value of the data exceeds the cost of the recovery.
Data Recovery Costs
On average a reputable data recovery company is going to charge anywhere from $400 to $700 for a logical hard drive recovery. A logical recovery is where there is damage to the file system, or partition table and the data becomes inaccessible. This can be caused by an accidental format, electrical issues, viruses, etc. In some cases physical issues with the drive can also cause this problem, especially if the drive has weak or degrading read/write heads. A logical recovery can typically be performed without having to make any repairs to the drive.
Physical recoveries can be priced all over the place. It really just depends on who you call. A physical recovery actually requires the hard drive to undergo some type of repair before the actual data recovery process can begin. In most cases a physical recovery entails swapping out the read/write heads, repairing the electronics or transplanting the platters. There are a handful of companies out there that are very skilled at performing this type of recovery. A word of caution though, for every one good company, there are probably five dozen others out there that will make the situation worse.
Budgeting Your Data Recovery
If data recovery is not in your budget now, and the data is not time sensitive, one thing you can do is just keep the drive stored somewhere safe. This gives you time to save up money in order to have a competent lab recover the data for you. You should look for a lab that offers free evaluations, and will give you a firm quote in writing before they start the recovery process. That way if the price ends up being too high you can just have the drive shipped back to you, and you would know the exact amount you would need to save up in order to get the recovery done at a later date. It’s not going to hurt the drive, or make the chances of a recovery any less possible if the drive is stored somewhere while you save up to have it recovered. Keep in mind that any reputable company will not charge you anything if the data is unrecoverable. This is one critical thing to verify with any company you contact. Consumers can be caught paying a lot of money for data recovery services, and still not have their data when it’s done. It’s not uncommon for some companies to charge $150 to $300 for parts, lab fees, attempt fees, or whatever they want to call it even on cases where the data is not recoverable.
Things You Can Do Yourself
If you suspect your hard drive has failed there are a couple of things you can try on your own to avoid the costs of shipping the drive to a data recovery lab. First of all, if the drive is clicking, knocking, or making any unusual noises, you are out of options to try yourself. Those cases definitely need professional data recovery service. Regardless of what you read about putting drives in freezers, opening them up, or whatever, anything you do in a case like this can only make the situation worse. If the drive makes any unusual noises at all, it’s best to just immediately power down the drive.
If the drive sounds ok, you may want to try it in another computer. It could be an issue with your motherboard, or even the cabling in your computer. Make sure all connections are secure to the hard drive. If you don’t know what to look for, see if you can find a family member who is knowledgeable with computers to help you.
If the drive is in an external enclosure, like a backup hard drive, and it no longer powers up, remove the drive from the enclosure. Check for signs of an electrical short. If it was severe enough, you will smell the burnt electronics. In a case like this, a data recovery professional would be needed. In most hard drives today, you can’t simply replace damaged electronic boards from one hard drive to another. There is unique, adaptive information that is stored on various chips on those boards and the data won’t be accessible without it.
If there are no obvious signs of physical damage to the drive, then you might want to find another computer or another hard drive enclosure and try the drive in that. It may have been an issue with the drive enclosure that prevented the drive from powering up. If it still has problems, then chances are you are going to need a data recovery professional help you.
Cheap Data Recovery
Try to avoid companies that price themselves too low. You wouldn’t have brain surgery performed on you by the doctor who bid the least would you? In a way, it’s the same thing with data recovery. Consumers don’t realize how difficult data recovery actually is. Some of the information out there doesn’t help, and will often times tempt users into trying to perform the procedures themselves. YouTube videos, even the ones that we have out there, one of which is titled Western Digital Head Swap, simplify the process and make it seem easy. Our videos were never intended to be instructional. They were meant to give our customers an overview of the process when we repair hard drives for data recovery. There is a lot more to data recovery than will ever be shown in a video. If the data is worth it, and many times our pictures, business files, and intellectual property is priceless, then it will be worth it to go with a company that you have confidence in. Not just some fly-by-night company who says they can do it for $199. Sometimes the parts alone can cost that much.
In closing, while data recovery can be expensive, cheap data recovery can cost you more in the long run. Do your homework, study the industry, and choose a company you feel comfortable with.
pokemon Basically I spent the whole day chilling at UMW with Val the whole day and learn about losing all my battery to the world of Pokémon Go
Make your own battery with my book DIY Lithium Batteries: http://amzn.to/2jbxvzS or check out my second book – The Ultimate DIY Ebike Guide: http://amzn.to/2BGx4Fn
Swagtron EB-5 ebike ($499) https://amzn.to/2P6I3yx
And of course both are available directly from https://www.Swagtron.com
See the reviews of these e-bikes that Swagtron sent me to try out soon on https://electrek.co/2018/09/06/swagtron-eb1-eb5-bang-for-your-buck/
The gear I use for my videos:
Camera – Nikon D5300: http://amzn.to/2DcuVlM
Lens – Tamron 18mm – 270mm: http://amzn.to/2qLZlsG
Thermal camera for iPhone/Android: http://amzn.to/2FikWvW
Parts that I use:
1000 W electric bicycle kit: https://goo.gl/GFsH5N
48V lithium-ion battery with rack: https://goo.gl/hyXzLT
48V 14.5 Ah Hailong (shark) battery: https://goo.gl/jg429Z
36V 11 Ah bottle battery: https://goo.gl/Snja5H
All ebike batteries: https://goo.gl/FLC3cK
All 18650 cells: https://goo.gl/hYWnwU
Bafang BBS01 kit: https://goo.gl/6wi43g
Bafang BBS02 kit: https://goo.gl/GWLRxo
Bafang BBSHD kit: https://goo.gl/LgtBry
100W Flexible solar panel: https://goo.gl/dQPhQX
18650 cells: https://goo.gl/hYWnwU
18650 positive insulating washer: https://goo.gl/HBVOuc
Nickel strip: http://goo.gl/VIrNQq
Spot welder: https://goo.gl/KN3Uaw
Silicone wire: http://goo.gl/xmpbKD
Black 18650 cell spacers: http://goo.gl/hQxWF6
Vruzend cell spacers: https://goo.gl/5ReLqA
Large heat shrink tubing: http://goo.gl/6v1ow9
Small heat shrink tubing: https://goo.gl/OU3Z6u
Foam sheet for protecting battery: http://goo.gl/5e71tE
Kapton tape: https://goo.gl/D6BT57
350W hubmotor: https://goo.gl/K1mYvR
36V/48V controllers I used: https://goo.gl/nJBnJP
Cycle Analyst: http://amzn.to/2CIKIIe
***Question response book giveaway rules***
When you guys asks questions in the comments of my videos, I’ll try to answer them. If there are questions that I think would make a good video response, I’ll choose them to do a longer segment. If I choose your question for a video response, you’ll win a copy of my book The Ultimate DIY Ebike Guide (the paperback or the ebook), or my book DIY Lithium Batteries.
Here are some things that YouTube makes me say: This contest is not sponsored by YouTube and YouTube isn’t affiliated with it. I’m supposed to provide a link to the community guidelines for YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/t/community_gu…). YouTube is not a sponsor of this “contest” and by participating, you are releasing YouTube from any potential liability, whatever that might be. Privacy notice: I won’t steal your info. If you do win, you can choose to send me your address so I can mail you a paperback copy of the book (or some other prize if that changes) or you can send me an email address and I’ll send you a copy of the ebook. I will do everything in my power to immediately forget your personal information afterwards.
Music by Kevin Macleod
When the iPhone 4 was released in June of 2010, it was not without it's share of glitches. The first reported glitch was with the iPhone 4's wireless 3G antenna. This was suspected to cause poor reception and a high volume of dropped calls. The next reported issue was with the iPhone 4's proxy sensor. Apple addressed this problem on the software level, with the release of iOS 4.1.
Since the iOS 4.1 release, there have been many questions as to whether or not the update resolved the iPhone 4 proxy sensor issue once and for all. From my own experience, I have not had any complaints since this software update was made public.
Some of you may be wondering, "What in the world is a proxy sensor is and what function does it serve?" Without getting too involved, every iPhone (including the original iPhone 2G, 3G and 3GS models) have a ratio sensor. This sensor emits an infrared (IR) light that detects the presence of a solid object (such as a head or hand), while you have a call in progress, or while you are listening to a voicemail. When it detects a solid object, it turns your iPhone's LCD panel off. This is a function you'll probably never miss until it's no longer working.
The function of the proxy sensor actually has two distinct advantages. First, you are not muting your phone, accidently pushing buttons, or hanging up on your callers with your cheek. The other advantage is that it preserves power consumption and improves your phone's battery life in between charging cycles.
As an Apple Certified Macintosh Technician who makes a living supporting and fixing Apple products, this is an issue that could not be ignored. The reputation of my business hung in the balance of being able to find a reliable and professional solution for this problem. I've done extensive research and testing on this topic and feel like I've made a significant headway in resolving this annoying glitch ..
In the four years that I've been repairing iPhones, it's only been recently that I've been experiencing the problems that have been widely documented and reported. Since the release of iOS 4.1, I have not seen any cases in which the iPhone's proxy sensor malfunctioned on a phone that had not been modified. When I say "modified" I mean a phone that has undergone a color conversion, or one that the front glass and LCD had been replaced due to the phone being dropped and having the original glass broken. I noticed that the occurrence was more after after a color conversions had been performed.
Since the proxy sensor on the iPhone 4 is located on the iPhone's mid-frame and is not a part of the front glass and LCD assembly, I had never questioned the quality of the parts I was purchasing. With that in mind, I began testing every phone prior to repair. I wanted to be sure that the phones were functioning properly, prior to repairs, or color conversions being made. So far, I have yet to find one that was not working just fine before the repair. It turns out, the problem was attributed to two factors.
1. The unique sensitivity of each iPhones proxy sensor.
2. The proxy sensor cover on some of the replacement glass is not tinted as dark. This allows too much light to pass through.
I've read over many articles and blogs that suggest using black tape with holes punched out, or a black magic marker to cover the iPhone's proxy sensor. I did not feel that either of these fixes offered a professional solution, or one that I would even be proud to employ in my practice.
After speaking with my parts distributor, I found the best solution for this problem is an inexpensive "sensor cover." This cover is a small piece of film with a coating that looks to be the same red polarized coating on some sunglasses. This small piece of film is installed over the top of the iPhone's proxy sensor.
At the end of the day, it would appear that too much light is getting in and confusing the phone. The proxy sensor cover filters excess light from entering the phone and there by solves the problem.
A quick update on what has been going in the last three years.
After leaving CERN a year ago, we’ve started a company – focusing on research and development in the field of electric mobility. This video shows some of the hardware we’ve developed since then.
There will be short follow up videos on different EV topics.
What is mentioned in this video:
MCP-25 series of SiC power converters
UMC Drive 3 (motor controller)
VCU 2 (Vehicle Control Unit)
Sorry guys for not doing any update sooner!