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In this video, I will show you how easy it can be to design your own Automatic 12V Lead Acid Battery Charger Circuit Board and have them manufactured professionally at https://jlcpcb.com JLCPCB is the largest PCB prototype enterprise in China and a high-tech manufacturer specializing in quick PCB prototype and small-batch PCB production.
You can use this circuit to charge12V 1A ~ 12V 7A Battery.
I designed this circuit to charge your battery @ 70% to 75% only due to some safety reasons. If you want to make it for 100% charging, then remove the LM7815 and connect directly 18VDC supply and set tripping point at 15.8 ~ 16V. and always use 5 to 6 times lower charging current from the maximum value of battery current. i.e 1.2A for a 7AH battery.
*This circuit Has not any current limiting feature.(except 1R5W Resistor)
**This circuit is not 100% Perfect, but it is still very useful for hobby/DIY projects.
***Make it at your own risk.
Hank shows us another SciShow: Experiment! This time he’s tackling what may be the most cliche, well-known and misunderstood experiment of all time: the lemon battery. The take home message in this one is: the electricity is NOT in the lemon. Just that delicious juice.
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Hi dosto aaj ki is video may hum apko yeh btay gay k aap kis trah sy apni battery ko kharab hony say bacha sakty hy.
oor is k ilawa aap ko yeh b btay gay k kis trah sy aap apni battery k andar distal water daal sakty hy.
is video may bohat sari tricks ap k sath share ki jaay gi umeed hy apko video pasand aay gi.
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Schematic & demo of a lead-acid car battery charger that automatic switches off on the following battery voltages (set with a 3 pole switch): 13,23 Volt / 14,18 Volt / 14,50 Volt. That switch-off voltage depends also on the (use) of a diode to the battery. But surely a safe switch-off voltage can be set, e.g. in the middle position of the switch. After testing with the “computer diode” (barrier voltage 0,6 Volt) the circuit did not want to switch off at the highest voltage (14,5 V). Anyway: it switched off properly at the middle voltage (middle switch position, 14,2 V).
It is not a beginners circuit because you can damage your car battery when you let it switch off on a too high voltage and the aligning to the different voltages must be watched carefully and takes time.
Plus the fact that the resistors that decide about the switch-off are in the (very) low resistance range. So it could be that you must experiment with resistors in the 5-20 Ohm range to precisely get your switch-off moment with lead-acid batteries with slightly different properties, compared to the ones that I used.
By the way: I used 2 different lead-acid car batteries (40 Ah and 75 Ah – 12 Volt) during my experiments and all worked fine, so too much worries are not necessary.
You could get e.g. an old 12 V car battery for free in the dump and do your experiments in the precise aligning process. Of course that battery must be a little bit healthy, with a “dead” lead acid battery it is not possible to align everything properly.
The basic alignment can, by the way, be done without a lead-acid battery connected to the circuit. It can be done by connecting a + voltage (opposite to ground, minus) to the sense-line and very very slowly adding voltages via a separate power supply between 12 V and 15 Volt.
At the same time: connect a Voltmeter with 2 digits behind the comma (so 1/100 Volt) to the sense line (+ opposite to ground, minus) see and align when the Schmitt trigger switches off. When all is OK you will see that the Schmitt Trigger switches on very precise (1/100) voltages in this range (12-15 Volt) and this depends on the setting of the 470 K potentiomer.
Align that 470 K potentiometer carefully (going out off the middle position, slightly up or down) till you find the right 3 voltages where the charger switches off.
By the way: it is not difficult. The circuit works very properly and was thorough tested during the development the past weeks.
Be careful with 110 V or 230 V AC, it can be lethal. Make it impossible that you, during experiments, can touch a 110 V or 230 V wire by isolating all these wires properly with good quality PVC tape (preferred Coroplast tape) and/or blank silicon kit. Use tiewraps to fasten PVC tape isolations, it can slide off.
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Important: you can omit (bridge) the diode to the battery. It will switch off more easily, because the diode gives a voltage drop.
The problem could be that the “charge” led keeps lighting up when the circuit has already switched off.
(“from” = “of”, sorry Dutch way of saying)
In this short video I demonstrate how to connect a battery charger. The important thing here is to ensure you are connecting it up to the right terminal. If you get this wrong you could damage the battery and the charger. Enjoy 🙂
•Suitable for use with 6V & 12V lead-acid and 12V AGM batteries of 1.2Ah to 120Ah.
•Input : 230V AC 50Hz 0.6A
•Outputs: 6V: 4A DC 12V:4A DC
•Automatic detection of battery voltage & condition
•Automatic charging current selection
•4 charging modes : 12V Standard, AGM & Winter; 6V Standard
•5 step charging including recovery & maintenance cycles
•Memory function automatically re-starts charging if interrupted
•LCD display with battery level indicator & dual colour backlight
•Interchangeable 1.5m battery clip & ring terminal connector leads included
•Overload, reverse-polarity and short circuit protection
•Manufactured to European electrical safety standards
•Suitable for low maintenance and maintenance-free batteries
•Not recommended for use with GEL batteries
Finally took the time to finish off my homemade battery charger for 12V lead acid batteries. I took a M.O.T. and stripped out the secondary, and wound roughly 20 turns of 12ga copper wire. 15.2 VDC open circuit. More turns of wire = higher voltage.
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