Schumacher DSR131 6V/12V 250A ProSeries Battery Charger and Engine Starter
+Charges standard, AGM and Gel and deep-cycle batteries
+50A boost mode quickly brings deeply discharged battery back to life
+6V/12V 250A Voltage
+Digital display, LED indicators and push-button controls
+Microprocessor controlled to automatically adjusts amperage rate, to charge and maintain


DIY electric motorcycle Part 2, engine and e-parts prep

Learn how to make your own battery with my book DIY Lithium Batteries: or check out my second book – The Ultimate DIY Ebike Guide:

The gear I use for my videos:
Camera – Nikon D5300:
Lens – Tamron 18mm – 270mm:
Thermal camera for iPhone/Android:
Drone for “follow me” filming:
Camera for invisible selfie stick shots:

Here are some of the products I use:
Bafang BBS01 kit:
Bafang BBS02 kit:
Bafang BBSHD kit:
250W complete e-bike kit:
500W complete e-bike kit:
1,000W complete e-bike kit:
36V 13Ah Hailong (shark) battery:
48V 15 Ah triangle battery:
52V 17.5 Ah triangle battery:
All ebike batteries:
All 18650 cells:
Xiaomi QiCycle:
500 Wh folding e-bike:
Weird suspension folding e-bike:
Segway ES2 scooter (AliExpress):
Segway ES2 scooter (Gearbest):
Xiaomi M365 scooter:
100W Flexible solar panel:
100W Folding solar panel:
Cycle Analyst:

The parts that I use for building batteries:
18650 cells:
18650 positive insulating washer:
Nickel strip:
Spot welder:
Silicone wire:
Black 18650 cell spacers:
Vruzend cell spacers:
Large heat shrink tubing:
Small heat shrink tubing:
Foam sheet for protecting battery:
Kapton tape:

***Question response book giveaway rules***
When you guys asks questions in the comments of my videos, I’ll try to answer them. If there are questions that I think would make a good video response, I’ll choose them to do a longer segment. If I choose your question for a video response, you’ll win a copy of my book The Ultimate DIY Ebike Guide (the paperback or the ebook), or my book DIY Lithium Batteries.
Here are some things that YouTube makes me say: This contest is not sponsored by YouTube and YouTube isn’t affiliated with it. I’m supposed to provide a link to the community guidelines for YouTube (…). YouTube is not a sponsor of this “contest” and by participating, you are releasing YouTube from any potential liability, whatever that might be. Privacy notice: I won’t steal your info. If you do win, you can choose to send me your address so I can mail you a paperback copy of the book (or some other prize if that changes) or you can send me an email address and I’ll send you a copy of the ebook. I will do everything in my power to immediately forget your personal information afterwards.

Outro Music: BenSounds


Car Battery Jump Starter 5ive® Portable Battery Charger Engine Start External USB Power Bank Charger

Car Battery Jump Starter 5ive® Portable Battery Charger Engine Start External USB Power Bank Charger. ………
►► Amazon Shop Link:
►► Aliexpress Shop Link:
►► Gearbest Shop Link:


Model No. PL2545 – 12V, 20/10/2A Intelligent Battery Charger with Engine Starting Assistance

Model PL2545 is a perfect charger to meet the needs of mechanical repair shops, collision repair facilities, fleet operations, marinas, agricultural operations and consumers. Intelligent, beneficial, safe and versatile – one charger enables optimal battery management. With three charge rates, it can manage lead acid batteries of any size, from
small power sport batteries up to Group 31 batteries.

The PL2545 is really three tools in one unit. It functions as an advanced automatic battery charger to bring depleted batteries to full charge so that they can be put back into service. It functions as an advanced automatic battery maintainer, conditioning and maintaining batteries in long term storage charging situations. It also provides engine starting assistance, quickly energizing a depleted battery so that the engine can be started.

• 12 Volt Operation
• 20/10/2A Charging Rates
• Fully Automatic Operation
• 12 Volt Engine Start Assistance
• Ability to Manage Depleted Batteries
• Reverse Polarity Protection
• Battery Fault Detection
• Easy-to-Follow LCD Display


Running Your Pit Bike Engine For the Very First Time!

This article concerns everyone who just bought a pit bike online and are wondering what to do after assembling it!

Most manufacturer manuals and other sources will tell you the same thing about running the engine for the very first time:

Do not run your bike at more than two thirds of its full throttle and avoid high rpm’s during the first two hours of running. Often you are advised to drain the oil AFTER these two hours and use quality semi synthetic 10W40 4-stroke engine oil.

Because I just got myself a two new ssr pit bikes , I was browsing a very reputable pit bike forum ( looking for some info on assembly and breaking in and I stumbled upon some VERY valuable info. This article is a short summary of a newsletter article I found written by Motoman. Motoman is a very experienced superbike tuner who has his own newsletter (Power News Magazine).

This article “Break-In Secrets” is very controversial.

“Links to this article now appear on hundreds of motorsports discussion forums from all over the world. The reason is that over time, large numbers of people have done a direct comparison between my method and theowner’s manual method, and the news of their success is spreading rapidly.”

“The results are always the same… a dramatic increase in power at all RPMs. In addition, many professional mechanics have disassembled engines that have used this method, to find that the condition of the engine is much better than when the owner’s manual break-in method has been used.The thing that makes his page so controversial is that there have been many other break-in articles written in the past which will contradict what has been written here.”

Motoman wrote “break-In Secrets” after successfully applying this method to approximately 300 new engines, all with great results and no problems whatsoever. So I advise you to consider his advice!

According to Motoman, by just following the instructions from the manufacturer, you risk a permanent loss in power of about 2 to 10 percent. The direct result from a too gentle break-in will be leaky piston rings. This will allow pressure to blow by into the crankcase on acceleration, and to suck up oil into the combustion chamber on deceleration. In other words: loss in power and permanent contamination of the engine oil. The only solution to a bad break in will be: re-honing the cylinders, installing new piston rings and starting over again. In other will have to take the engine apart!

You only get ONE chance to break in your engine correctly! I will explain you why and how.

Correctly breaking in your engine is all about the piston ring seal. A correct break in will result in a better fit of the piston ring against the cylinder surface. This will prevent leaky pistons. New rings  must be worn in quite a bit in order to seal all around the bore. If the gas pressure is strong enough during the first miles of operation (open that throttle!), then the entire ring will wear into the cylinder surface, to seal the combustion pressure as well as possible.

So what is the problem with a too easy break in?

The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down the “peaks” of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run.There’s a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well … the first 20 miles! If the rings aren’t forced against the walls soon enough, they’ll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again.

SO…the best advice i found about breaking in your engine is

1)Run it hard! (for specific methods: breaking in on a dyno, on the streets or on the racetrack…check Motomans 14 page article!

2)DONT use synthestic oil! Refresh your oil immediately when receive the bike, BEFORE breaking in, as you cannot be sure about its quality. Use Valvoline, Halvoline, or similar 10W40 petroleum CAR OIL. Cange oil and oil filter after first 20 miles!! After two days of hard racing you can change to your favorite brand.  Check the article to find out why.

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Cleaning Up the Sportster Engine

Let’s get the grime off this engine and get prepped for the top end rebuild.

-Tools & Supplies-
Ryobi Angle Grinder –
Starter Rebuild Kit –
Starter Push Button –
Craftsman Ratchet Set –
Drill –
Tire Kit with Valve Stem Removal Tool –
Wire Wheel –
Self Tapping Screws –
Ryobi Hot Glue Gun –
Hot Glue –
Bearing Puller –
Estwing Hammer –

Canon M50 –
Canon 70D –
GoPro Hero 7 Black –
GoPro Battery Chargers –
M50 Charger –
70D Charger –
Light Kit –
Tripod –

Lavalier Microphone –
Microphone –
Sound Dampener –
Clamp Mount –
XLR Cable –
Microphone Tripod Boom –
Headphones –


Cen Tech 10/2/50 Amp 12V Manual Charger With Engine Start

Harbor freight, cen tech 12v manual battery charger. Video review This portable automotive battery charger has three modes, making it easy to charge, maintain or jump start 12 volt batteries. 10/2/50 Amp 12V Manual Charger


How to Remove Your Mk2 Mini Moto Engine

Many mini moto configurations will require you to remove the engine from the mini moto. This is why I have produced the following guide.

Firstly you will need to remove the mini moto's fairing.

Start with the seat fairing, unscrew the four seat screws and remove the seat. Unscrew the screw at the front end of the seat fairing and remove the petrol cap. The fairing can now be lifted from the mini moto. Replace the fuel tank petrol cap and remove the fuel tank by pulling the rubber tube of the nipple on the top of the carburettor. You may want to double the rubber fuel tube over and secure it in this position with a clothes peg. This is to stop fuel leaking out.

Remove the bottom fairing by unscrewing the holding bolts (two on each side), this frees the bottom fairing from the top. Unscrew the two bolts on the underside of the bottom fairing. The bottom fairing is now free. The top fairing is only now held by one last bolt located in between the handle bars at the front of the mini moto.

Once you have removed the fairing, you will need to take the chain off the front sprocket. To do this loosen the back wheel nuts and the tensioning bolts. The back wheel can now be manoeuvred toward the front sprocket losing the chain. When the chain is loose enough you can remove it from the front sprocket.

Remove the pull start from the engine by unscrewing the three holding screws. Once the pull start has been removed you will see the wire that comes from the stop switch. Unplug this.

The throttle cable can be removed from its fitting on the top of the carburettor. Pull the rubber seal up so that the locking nut can be unscrewed, the throttle can now be dropped from the carburettor along with the needle valve and spring.

The next step is to Remove the Exhaust. The exhaust is fixed to the mini motos frame by a bolt located just under the seat fairing toward the back of your mini moto. Undo this bolt with a spanner and an alan key. The exhaust is fixed to the underside of the engine by two bolts via a gasket. Remove the two bolts with an alan key making sure that you do not lose the gasket washer. The exhaust can now be slid out past the engine and removed form the mini moto.

The engine is free from its mechanical fittings, the engine then needs to be removed from the mini motos frame. The bolt at the top of the engine must be undone first using the alan key. The three screws located on the underside of the engine are the last fixings to be undone. The engine can now be completely removed from the mini moto.

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How to Start Electric or Engine RC Hobbies

Half the fun of RC hobbies comes from assembling a car, boat, plane, or helicopter from a kit prior to firing it up and running it about the block. RC hobbies offer a passion for all ages and budgets, allowing anyone to perform wheelies, flips, barrel rolls, and dives at a one-tenth scale. Getting started with remote model craft requires only a little bit of technological knowledge, a few tools, and enough patience to get a craft off the ground. A hobby-grade kit should be strong enough to absorb a decent amount of punishment – from children, pets, or simple gravity – in comparison to a collector's model or a simple children's toy, giving these cars or planes the strength needed for a long lifespan.

The difference between most RC hobbies is the difference between vehicles in the real world: they are either large or small and run on fuel or on electricity, with advantages and disadvantages to both. Most electric vehicles are smaller and have a better top speed but can not run as well on a bumpy track or in windy weather; the nitro vehicles, by comparison, have a lower top speed but can handle challenges like hilly weather. A smaller vehicle, between one-tenth and one-twenty actual size, uses less power. A larger craft, between one-eighth and one-quarter size, will be able to achieve excellent top speeds (as high as sixty miles per hour) with several gears, but need constant juice and suffer from damaged parts more frequently.

Electric vehicles make RC hobbies clean and quiet. Their engine makes little noise and no fuel fumes are expelled, making them ideal for indoor use. They cost less than their fuel counterparts but require more frequent top-offs, with a battery life that rarely runs past fifteen minutes. Those with experience in RC hobbies can modify electric engines to give better performance at the cost of battery life by installing an aftermarket motor.

Engine vehicles, also called nitro vehicles, run on methane fuels that give them greater top speed and run time. Filling a nitro vehicle is easier than replacing a battery but much more expensive; a quart costs anywhere between ten and twenty dollars. Many people who pursue RC hobbies prefer the authentic sound of nitro models, as pint-sized monster trucks and wave-runners sound just like their real-life counterparts. Just like their real-life counterparts, however, engine RC parts need to be repaired, which is a messy practice. Do not ever use gasoline in an engine model, or else it will melt away the interior and possibly start a fire.

Whether you are interested in electric or engine RC hobbies, there are several necessary tools for either operation. A slotted screwdriver as well as a Phillips-head screwdriver is critical while a set of needle-nose pliers and a good knife are invaluable for inserting or extracting miniature parts. Most hobby kits that require a wrench to complete the model will include one within the kit. The same transmitter may be used for both electric and fuel RC hobbies.