How to Wire a Battery to Battery Charger Sterling Power Pro Batt Ultra

In this video we look at the wiring setup of the battery to battery charger from Sterling Products. I show you how to wire the unit to both batteries, and where to install the wires for the temp sensor for the battery and where to install the ignition wire.
I go through the 3 modes thats on offer from this product and how to select the correct battery setting.

If you would like more information on this product or would like a price for fitting please contact the office on
01942 494090 or

Many thanks for watching and please don’t forget to subscribe


Car+Vehicle Jump Start Guide EverStart 100 Electric Battery Charger

How to use a battery charger/jumper to start a vehicle. EverStart Starter 100 Battery Charger Directions.
Step by Step guide! Just what you need!

Old video I shot a couple years ago and never got around to editing or posting it till now.
THIS is my 2nd Channel: Basically random and uncut and personal and just weird boring or fantastic videos galore. Who knows?!?

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Proudly edited with Windows Movie Maker & Windows 10 Photos!

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Let me know what you think of this video! Comments below!


This video shows you how your BMW Battery Charger works and how to use it.

This video shows you how your BMW Battery Charger works and how to use it.


How To Choose A Search Engine Optimization Company

Search Engine Optimization Philosophy

This is arguably the most critical factor when deciding which company to work with to improve your online business or brand identity. Employing a search engine marketing or placement company that only utilizes ethical search engine optimization techniques or "white hat" methods will ensure that you minimize the potential risk of being dropped, removed, penalized, deleted, or banished from the search engines. Nobody enjoys waking up glassy eyed to the unfortunated reality of being "Google sacked" for breaking or bending the search engines' implicit rules or explicit terms of service.

Search Engine Optimization Methodology / Specific Expertise

Can your expert SEO Company only optimize static websites built in basic HTML? An upstanding SEO company will have experience working with websites in all the common programming languages ​​and technologies, PHP, ASP, ASPX, HTML, Cold Fusion, Flash etc.

Does your SEO Company have experience optimizing both static and dynamic websites? Can your SEO Company optimize using various e-commerce packages and interfaces such as Monster Commerce, Yahoo Stores, OS Commerce,, Volusion?

Depth Of Optimization / Piecemeal Services

The most basic search engine optimization companies around do not actually perform search engine optimization at all- they are purely submission services which either manually or automatically submit your site to various search engines or directories. Submission companies are typically very inexpensive since no actual coding, linking, or content development takes place on your actual website. Typical pricing runs around $ 19.95 to $ 399 per month for these submission type services.

A mid level optimization company gets their hands more firmly on the marketing handle by editing code, analyzing keywords, building links, and adjusting / writing fresh content for your site. They also may do a pinch of off-site optimization, such as press releases, article submissions, and blog writing. Typically, firms of this middle level range charge between $ 399 and $ 850 per month.

The highest level search engine placement firm fulfills the obligations described for mid level optimization companies, but also is responsible for conversion tracking and analysis. The emphasis on off-site optimization is also much greater and time consuming. This means that high level optimization firms are essentially responsible for discovering what is working and what is not working through the entire customer experience – from initial search through conversion. More man hours per month also means a higher fee that search engine firms must charge to cover their costs. The usual pricing range for these firms' are $ 850.00 all the way up to $ 10,000 per month, but on average, you'll be looking at fees above the $ 1,000 a month range.

A piecemeal marketing company is one that treats various parts of an optimization campaign as separate entities. For example, an optimization company may charge distinct fees only for "linking" or "content construction." This piecemeal approach can be detrimental. Successful optimization is the synergy of multiple efforts on multiple fronts, sometimes simultaneous, and sometimes in succession. Piecing together different aspects of an optimization campaign typically reaps poorer results than a comprehensive strategy.

System Of Evaluation / Reporting

The majority of search engine optimization companies cringe at the thought of empowering their clients to evaluate their work. An ethical search engine optimization company does the opposite. There are four tools we recommend using in tandem to evaluate a search engine optimization company's work / performance.

1. Real Time Statistics / Conversion Analysis Software

Being able to see traffic gains and conversions in real time can be useful window in evaluating how your SEO Firm is performing. Having the ability to see who is coming to your site, from what search engines that they are coming from, and the exact keyword phrase used within the search query is an essential tool.

2. Positioning or Visibility Reports

Being emailed bi-weekly positioning reports on the specific keywords that you are interested in ranking highly for can be incredibly useful. A visibility percentage, which is the percentage of people that are finding you for keywords that are important for your business – on the Major Search Engines – Google, Yahoo, AOL, and MSN is also important. Make sure your firm does not overdue the automated search engine questions however, the search engines may consider this spamming their databases.

3. Alexa Rating:

You can download the Alexa Toolbar right now from This gives you a solid summary of the general traffic trend over the last three months for your website when compared to other existing sites. If you have a brand new website, odds are you will not even have an alexa rating or visible data at all. The alexa rating also shows you, in general terms, how your website stacks up- traffic wise- in comparison to your competitors or industry affiliates. The lower your alexa rating the more traffic your site is generating when compared to other sites in the alexa universe. Please note, if your site has an alexa rating of "1" this does not mean you are the most visited site on the internet- it most likely means you are operating a Yahoo Store- in such a case, it is identifying Yahoo's overall traffic, and not your individual site. A general tool like this can give you a quick overall impression of traffic growth and trends. Be careful though, the numbers are generalities (similar to the television Nielsen Ratings) and not absolute figures.

4. Google PageRank

You can download the Google Toolbar right now by going to Click on the options tab and check off the "display PageRank" measure. You will be able to see how Google is rating the importance of your site on a scale of 0-10. As an optimization company works with your campaign you can check periodically to see how the number is increasing. The typical website might see a PageRank increase of one to two points over the course of an optimization campaign. Keep in mind that it is easier to increase your PageRank at the lower ends of the spectrum. As you approach higher PageRanks it becomes more difficult for your rating to balloon.

Due Diligence: Corporate Goals / Industry And Keyword Research

How does the SEO Company you are considering performing its up front legwork regarding your organization, industry and corporate goals? Do they ask questions about:

What your corporate goals (both short and long term) are, your industry, your competition. What keywords are currently working for you? What PPC (Pay Per Click) words are currently effective? What PPC engines (Adwords, Overture, MSN / Live) are currently effective? How your site is designed? Is your site dynamic or static?

What tools does your SEO Firm employ to perform its keyword research?

How about Wordtracker, WebCEO, or Keyword Elite? What about the basic Overture keyword suggestion tool or the generic Google keyword suggestion tool supplied by Adwords. Do they utilize a combination of the basic tools? What about proprietary keyword analysis methodology? Do they have dedicated tools that have been developed in-house, or by a third party?

Client to Account Manager Ratio

Not many SEO companies like to publicize their client to account manager ratio. This is the ratio representing the number of clients that each account manager handles at any given time. The lower the amount of clients each account manager assists, odds are the better the service and the higher the level of personal attention. We recommend that a search engine optimization account manager supports fewer than thirty clients at any given time.

Man-Hours Per Month

The number of man hours per month your SEO production department actually dedicates to your business is critical. It is more than smart to ask for a monthly time allotment estimate before beginning an optimization campaign. What you expect to receive and what is actually delivered should be right in line.

Company Structure and Size

Does your SEO Company consist of a laptop computer with your account manager working out of his basement sitting next a salivating golden retriever? Is your SEO company a bureaucratic nightmare that forces you to fill out trouble tickets when you need help on the spot?

Your ethical search engine optimization company should be somewhere within the sweet spot of not too small and not too large. You want individual attention, but you would also like to know there is more than one mind, calculating your next business moves.


Does your ethical search engine optimization company have a solid management team? Do they have a management team at all? Are the firms you are considering privately held or publicly traded? Is the owner of the optimization company an absentee landlord or an active member of the SEO community? It is not out of the question to ask for the curriculum vitae or resume of the powers that be, in fact, it makes perfect sense if you are entrusting this company with not only your business but your livelihood. After all, SEO practitioners have no board certification that you can rely upon to check their track record.

Reputation / Importance

Has your SEO Company received multiple complaints via the Better Business Bureau? Check the better business bureau reports and see if there are unresolved complaints. From time to time clients may file complaints, but we believe it is the timely handling of these inquiries which are even more important when considering an optimization company to work with.

Past Results / Company SEO Rankings

Every SEO Company should have detailed reports regarding past client successes. The reports should include specifics as to optimization goals and timelines. Reporting on past clients should also focus within and between multiple industries. You should always be aware of a base point – where a particular client started out prior to the optimization company concluding an SEO campaign. Is the SEO firm itself performing poorly in the search engines? A low Google PageRank (below a 5) may be an indication your SEO firm has not been around for as long as one might like.

References / Company Shelf Life

Every SEO company should have solid references across industries and fields in both business to consumer industries as well as business to business arenas. References should stem from not only the past six months, but should originate from years prior to your introduction with the company. If your SEO firm performs quality work, clients should be around for years to sing their praises.

Costs / Pricing Structure / Up front Fees

Costs should be consistent with the service that the company is offering- a la the "Consistent Value Proposal" taught at Yale School of Management. A $ 49.00 a month campaign run by a credit card company that does not specialize in search engine optimization might not be the optimal choice for an in depth or high level optimization campaign. An SEO company should also only offer costing after they have a clear understanding of your business, goals, and the work involved. Blanketed cost structures can lead to frustration, unrealized expectations, and extremely failure. Also be concerned if your optimization firm demands a full six month payment up front in order to simply "get started."

The ideal optimization company charges an up front fee and monthly recurring fee which is commensurate with the services that are actually being performed. A high quality optimization firm that works on your site utilizing 30-60 man-hours per month can not possibly charge a $ 49.00 every thirty days to perform its services.


A nasty case of the bird flu hits your unsuspecting account manager right where it counts! Does your optimization company have the ability to smoothly transition the current state of your campaign to another qualified optimization expert? Every SEO company should have a system in place where knowledge about existing accounts can easily be distributed from one individual to the next. If there does happen to be a catastrophe regarding your account manager, you should feel comfortable that your business continues to prosper regardless of the circumstances.

Quality Control

Every SEO company should have someone overlooking your account manager to ensure that every last "i" is dotted and every last "t" is crossed. Your account manager should be responsible for the success of your campaign, but an extra set of eyes can occasionally be needed to add one more factor weighing in on your side of success.

Promises / Results Timeline

We've heard SEO companies promise first page listings in Google for competitive phrases within 48-Hours. If your SEO sales representative is overzealous and unrealistic, it should be a sign that this is most likely a company to steer away from. Gaining search engine listings can be a hardought, time intensive battle that comes from both diligent work and intelligent planning.

Production Staff Quality

Production staff should be divided between account managers and specialized production technicians. Account managers are the hub of an optimization campaign direction and implementation. Account managers should be able to perform all of the actual coding, linking, and content construction for each client. As an optimization campaign progresses and increases in complexity, they should be able to call upon their support staff or production department to complete specialized work orders for each client. The more specialized each member of the production department, the more efficient they will be at completing their work (thank Henry Ford for this).

Location / Proximity

When you call your account manager or SEO company do you listen to a curious two beeps before being connected to an individual working without air conditioning overseas? Not a good sign. It is imperative that you hire a search engine placement firm which sales force works in tandem with its production department. There should be no disparity between what you were sold and what was actually delivered. The SEO guru working on your account should be able to understand your business, industry, and company goals quickly, without any overseas static jamming up communications.


How to Jump Start A Flat Battery with a Ring PowerPack

A How To video showing how jump-start a car’s flat battery using a Ring PowerPack.


CHARGE IT! 4500 Series Battery Chargers – Short Format

With the CHARGE IT! 4500 Series, everything in your garage can be kept charged up and ready for use. Big or small, summer or winter, no matter what type of lead acid battery it utilizes. With multiple charge rates and the ability to properly charge many battery types, CHARGE IT! is your go-to battery service tool for everything from motorcycles and jet skis to cars, trucks, SUVs and more.


Outboard Engine Servicing

Routine Outboard Maintenance

After your engine has been properly run in, you’ll need to establish a maintenance routine that begins with systematic checks every time you use your boat. These checks won’t take long, but could spell the difference between life and death for your engine.

Daily Checks and Outboard Maintenance

Daily checks should include a quick look at just a few key items. First, make sure that your oil tank (if you have one) is topped up. If you have a four-stroke engine, be sure to check the crankcase-oil level and top up if needed. Check your owner’s manual to determine if your dipstick should be screwed in, or left unthreaded when you check the oil level. Failure to do so could give you a false reading, and lead to overfilling or underfilling your engine’s crankcase, which can cause problems.

Check that you have adequate fuel for your intended trip, and that the fuel-tank vent is open.

With the engine tilted up, check for excess oil buildup near your propeller…it could mean that a seal in your lower gearcase has deteriorated. (Note: Some oil film buildup is normal in many cases; look for changes in the amount of buildup. If it appears to be increasing, check the oil level in the lower unit as discussed in the owner’s manual) If the seal has failed, take the engine to an engine repair shop immediately to avoid expensive gear-unit damage.

Check for fishing line wrapped around the propeller hub area. If you ignore it, the line can wrap tightly around the propshaft and cause the aforementioned gearcase seal failure.

If your engine is not through-bolted to the transom of your boat, make sure the screw clamps are tight and secure. Many engines have landed on the bottom of the sea through neglect of this simple check.

Sniff around for any sign of a fuel leak, and if you find one, fix it.

Once the engine is running, make sure to check the “telltale,” or “tracer,” spray, or exhaust discharge, to be certain the water pump is working.

If all these items are in order, you’re ready to go. There’s just one more thing:

If you tow your boat on a trailer, and run it in salt water, flush the cooling system daily with fresh water.

Monthly Checks and Outboard Maintenance

On a monthly basis, besides the routine daily checks, it’s a good idea to remove the engine cover and look for any corrosion build-up near cylinder heads and thermostat housings that could indicate leaky gaskets. Also, look for corrosion at wire terminal connections… clean and tighten them as required and then use one of the proprietary anti-corrosion sprays available at your dealership on all exposed electrical connections and unpainted metal parts of your outboard.

Make sure that throttle and gear-shift controls operate smoothly. Lubricate them as needed. Be aware that you should never shift gears unless your engine is running, so make sure the boat is securely made fast to the dock before checking shift controls for smooth operation.

Next, run the engine with the cover off and check that none of the bolt-on components (fuel pumps, voltage regulators, coils, and the like) have come loose from their mounts. Make sure all wires and cables are securely led and clipped through harness mounts. Next, if your engine is equipped with an engine mounted fuel strainer, check to see if any water has collected in it. It will be easy to see, as the water will separate from the fuel, drop to the bottom of the strainer, and be relatively clear in color compared to the fuel/oil mix above it. If you can see water, remove the strainer housing and drain out the water. Clean the screen element, reinstall, making sure the O-ring is in place before threading the housing back in, and re-check this assembly for fuel leaks after replacing the strainer housing. Simply pump your fuel primer bulb until the filter/strainer fills with fuel, and look for leaking fuel.

Check for corrosion at thermostat housing at top of cylinder head or engine block

Check for corrosion at all wiring connections

Next, you should check the condition of any sacrificial zinc anodes attached to your engine. Check for zincs at the lower portion of the mounting bracket on larger engines. There may be a zinc trim tab behind the propeller, or a small zinc screwed onto the antiventilation plate. Replace any zincs that are more than half eroded. In some areas they can dissolve quite rapidly, and if the zincs are completely gone, the only thing left to dissolve is your engine housing.

Lastly, check your engine’s battery, and top up the cells as needed.

Seasonal Checks and Outboard Maintenance

First let’s define the word “seasonal.” The way I apply it here, it actually means every three months, or every full boating season, whichever comes first. In other words, if you can boat all the year round, or for more than three months anyway, do these checks and maintenance procedures at least once every three months, or about every 50 to 75 hours of operation.

But if you live in a region where your boat use is restricted to less than three months, or 75 hours, consider these “seasonal” checks to be annual checks.

Three-Month (or Seasonal) Service Checks

Seasonal check-ups are far more comprehensive, and certain operations may require the expertise of your local dealer, but you’ll certainly be able to do all of the work listed here except in a few cases.

Grease Points… All grease points on your engine should be filled with fresh grease as recommended by your manufacturer for the specific engine location. Keep pumping in grease until all the old grease-and any water-is forced out. It’s a messy business, so wipe the old stuff away with a rag as it emerges around the lube point.

Propeller Inspection… First, be certain your ignition system is disabled by disconnecting the spark plug wires at the plugs. Then remove the propeller to inspect the shaft for any fishing line wrapped around it. If you find any, cut it all off.

Inspect the propeller for nicks, burrs, and any unwanted bends in the propeller blades. If the nicks are minor, you can clean them up with a file.

Inspect the propeller hub for any deterioration of the vulcanized rubber and its attachment to the hub spline. Any damage found here could spell trouble next season. If this hub is damaged, you’ll need either to have the prop rehubbed or a new prop. If you’re in doubt, have your dealer make the final call. You certainly don’t want to replace it if you don’t have to.

If all looks okay here, wipe down the propeller shaft to remove the old grease, and apply a thin coat of an approved waterproof grease to the shaft. Don’t reinstall the propeller just yet, as you’re going to run the engine to flush the cooling system, and you should never run an engine out of the water with the propeller on because of the obvious danger from the whirring blades.

When you do reinstall the propeller however, remember to replace the cotter pin for the prop nut if your engine is equipped with one. If your engine uses a Nylock self-locking prop nut, it should be replaced, as these lock effectively only once.

Gearcase-Oil Change… The next step in the seasonal service process is to change the gearcase oil. On most outboards, the gearcase will have two screw plugs evident in the side of the gear housing. Some engines, however, will have the gear unit’s drain and fill screws located on the hub just forward of the propeller, in which case they can only be reached with the propeller removed.

To drain the fluid from your unit, wipe the skeg clean at the very bottom of the engine and attach a piece of masking tape to the skeg.

Get a clean container that’s large enough to hold all the oil in your gearcase and place it under the tape. Remove the lower drain plug. Nothing much will come out until you slowly unscrew the upper check plug. The oil will then leak down the side of the gear housing, down the side of the skeg, and flow straight down the edge of the tape into your drain pan.

Carefully inspect the oil for excessive metal filings or discoloration. If the oil appears milky, or if you noticed a large amount of water coming out of the drain before the oil, then water has somehow migrated into the gearcase, indicating a bad seal.

Clean off the magnetic pickup found on many lower drain plugs and get ready to refill the lower unit with the correct gear oil.

A note of caution here: Don’t let anyone talk you into using straight gear oil as supplied by auto parts stores. Although this oil may have the same distinctive rotten egg odour as the fluid you have just removed from your outboard engine, it may not be the same stuff. Typically, the special outboard engine gear oils have a water-dispersant additive in them that’s not found in the automotive grades. Also, be aware that not all outboards use gear oil in their gearcases. Some use four-stroke engine oil, and others use a fluid quite similar to automotive automatic transmission oil. Be sure to check the specifications for your engine. It’s best to go to your dealer to purchase a container of the correct oil and one of the special fill pumps.

These pumps are quite inexpensive and fit not only the oil container, but screw directly into the threaded lower unit drainplug hole on your engine, minimizing mess. This is an important point, because you’re going to fill the gearcase from the bottom up. Once you are set-up , simply work the pump until you just begin to see oil seeping from the top check-plug hole. Then reinstall the check plug and snug up the screw.

Next, get the drain/fill plug ready to install, wipe down the magnetic pickup, and be sure the sealing Oring or gasket is either in place on the screw plug or in the gear housing. Unscrew the pump tool and quickly insert the drain/fill plug. Tighten it fully. Wipe off any excess oil from the gearcase and watch for leaks. Your oil change is complete.

Cooling System… The next step in the seasonal service is to thoroughly flush your cooling system with fresh water. A precaution here is to make certain that the flush adapter stays in place while you are flushing the engine. If the adapter slides down on the lower unit to a point below the water inlet, you could burn out the engine’s water pump-or the engine itself-if it’s left unattended for even a brief time.

As part of this cooling system service, it’s also a good idea to remove and clean your engine’s thermostat, if it has one. The internal cavity into which the thermostat and bypass valve fits is a trap for sand, salt, and general debris that gets past the system pickup strainer. With the thermostat removed, clean out any muck you find there and, with the engine running, run fresh water up from the flushing adapter through the engine to this point. You’ll now know for certain that the internal water flow is unrestricted, because water will leak out at this point. Just run the engine long enough to determine that a good solid flow of water is pouring out.

After the thermostat has been cleaned, reinstall it, using new gaskets, and run the engine again to be sure the thermostat cover is not leaking. If your engine has seemed to be running too hot lately, but your inspection has now revealed that water is getting to this point in adequate amounts, the operation of the thermostat could be the problem.

Impeller Replacement. In addition to flushing the cooling system and checking the thermostat, you may also regard the replacement of your water-pump impeller as routine maintenance. To tell the truth, manufacturer’s recommendations vary on this score, some suggesting that you renew the impeller every year, and others that you replace it only as needed. If you regularly venture far offshore, where failure of the water pump could be a serious problem, replace that impeller yearly.

On the other hand, if you use your motor only occasionally throughout the season, or on a tender, for non-risky trips from ship to shore, I’d advise you to replace the impeller every other year.

Cylinder Compression… Now that you’ve run your engine for a bit to flush your cooling system, and have warmed it up, it’s a good idea to perform the annual compression test. Remember, compression is one of your engine’s basic needs and a compression check can often catch impending problems before they become major.

For example, piston rings that are just beginning to gum up will cause low compression before they fail completely. Usually, you can cure this problem by running a manufacturer-approved decarbonizing fluid such as OMC or Mercury “Engine Tuner” through the engine. If you don’t catch this problem in time, the only solution is to take the engine apart. It’s simple to use these engine tuners-the instructions are right there on the product label.

What’s often not so easy is finding out what normal compression is for your engine. Often the specs are not given in the engine owner’s manual or even in the workshop service manual. So it’s a good idea to check the compression when the engine is fairly new and in good running order. Write down the compression figures for each cylinder in your manual for future reference.

As a matter of interest, the actual pressure is not that important-it’s the variation from the norm that you should be concerned with. In the case of a multicylinder engine, start worrying if any one cylinder varies from the others by 15 pounds per square inch (psi) or more. If yours is a single-cylinder engine, a drop of 15 psi from the norm you established when it was new is cause for concern. The steps for performing a compression test are really quite simple, but you must follow them exactly for your own safety and the accuracy of the readings. So be warned-don’t skip any of these steps:

1. First, disable the ignition system by unplugging the gang plug going into your ignition module. If your engine has an emergency shutoff switch, simply remove the lanyard clip to disable the ignition. If neither of these solutions works on your engine, take a wire jumper lead and connect one end to a good engine ground, and the other end to the metal connector inside the spark plug boot. You’ll have to use one jumper for each plug wire. Remember, simply disconnecting all the plug wires may be a dangerous move. Once you remove all your spark plugs and begin cranking over your engine, an explosive fuel/oil mix will be spraying out of the plug holes. A plug wire could spark and ignite this mix outside of the combustion chamber if it isn’t grounded to the engine. Also, this freewheeling type of spark could damage the ignition coils or modules.

2. Remove all the spark plugs, and be sure to keep them in order so you can return them to the cylinders they came from. Carefully inspect the business end of the plugs, looking for any inconsistency in coloration, and for any sign of water or rust near the tip.

3. Next, thread your compression gauge into the #1 spark-plug hole and “zero” the gauge.

4. Open the throttle as far as possible, to ensure that the cylinder gets an unrestricted supply of air. (Some engines allow only minimal opening if the gearshift is in neutral, to guard against over-revving.)

5. Crank over the engine an equal number of times for each cylinder you test, and be sure to re-zero the gauge for each cylinder. If you have

an electric start, count the seconds: “One thousand one, one thousand two, one thousand three, one thousand four” and so on, with the key or start button engaged. This will give you enough cranking time for a usable reading. If you have a pull start, pull the cord four to five times for each cylinder you are testing.

6. Record your readings from each cylinder for future reference. Use the 15 psi criterion already mentioned to determine if further action is required.

If compression readings are lower than normal for any cylinders, try a “wet” compression test, which will temporarily seal the piston rings, and determine if they are the cause of the low reading.

To perform this test, get a can of your favorite fogging oil and insert the red nozzle tube in the push button. Now carefully insert the other end of the tube into the spark plug hole and spray into the cylinder with a circular motion to distribute oil spray all around the perimeter of the piston. Spray for about four seconds.

Remove the nozzle and install your compression tester. Spin the engine over exactly the same number of times you did for the previous test and compare your gauge readings. If the compression rises noticeably, then your rings are beginning to stick.

If you’ve caught the problem early enough, decarbonizing with an “engine tuner” fluid, as described above, may cure it. If the dry compression was really low, and no change is evident during the wet test, it’s too late. Your rings and/or piston are worn to the point where major engine disassembly will be required. So be brave, and consult your dealer.

If two adjacent cylinders on a multicylinder engine give a similarly low reading, or if there was evidence of water or rust on the spark plugs from these cylinders, then the problem is a faulty head gasket. This is usually a problem better left for a professional to deal with, but if you have enough engine experience, you may want to tackle it yourself.

Incidentally, beware of compression readings from an engine that has been in storage for an extended period. While it’s sitting idle, the piston rings will “relax” and retract slightly, often giving an initially low and misleading reading. Always run an engine to operating temperature to ensure that the reading you get is accurate.

One last tip-if the spark plugs have been in the engine for the entire season, now’s the time to replace them.

Fuel System… The next phase of the annual inspection is to thoroughly check your boat’s entire fuel system for any signs of leaks, loose clamps, or cracked, frayed hoses and squeeze bulbs. Any rust patches on your fuel tanks should be sanded and touched up. Also, inspect the venting system for your fuel tank. It should be free to breathe. Any restriction can stop your engine.

An easy way to check for a fuel leak from the primer bulb to the engine is to squeeze the bulb until it gets firm, and hold pressure on it to be certain it remains firm while the engine’s not running. If it doesn’t stay firm, there’s a leak in the system between the bulb and the engine, or in the engine itself at the carburetor or fuel pump.

You may have to remove some access panels on your boat to do a visual check of the whole fuel delivery system, but don’t neglect this important task.

Automatic Oiler… Your next job is to check the automatic oil-blending system, if your engine is so equipped. Clean and inspect all lines and connections, replacing any cracked lines and tightening loose connections as required. It’s a good idea to check with your dealer for specific recommendations for your engine. On some engines, oil’ delivery pump diaphragms should be replaced as part of an annual service.

Steering… Your boat’s steering system needs to be thoroughly inspected at least once a year, but don’t hesitate to see what’s amiss any time you feel unusual looseness or tightness in the steering wheel. Inspect steering cables for any signs of separation, cracks in the outer sheathing, or rust buildup near the cable ends.

Battery… Next, check and clean all battery-cable connections and battery tops. Smear a light coating of Vaseline or similar light grease over the tightened connection. If you’re planning to put the boat in storage, remove the battery and trickle-charge it every month.

Two Final Adjustments. Last, you should have your dealer set your ignition timing, and adjust your carburetor(s). These are not procedures the part-time mechanic should attempt on an outboard engine. There are simply too many expensive tools required.


1918 Battery Charger: Tungar Tube ( Mercury Arc Rectifier )

this is a heavy duty battery charger i got off ebay made in 1918. i believe it is 6 amps. it took me a while to figure out how to run it. blew the circuit breakers in my house a few times too. but the charger didnt give a shit about if i shorted it or not so its earned my respect.


Old Lucas Mechanical Voltage Regulator – For Old Tractor Dynamo Battery Charging

I found this with a bunch of old tractor bits in my grandmas woods when I was hunting! It looked like a 4 cylinder diesel tractor. This would have regulated the voltage coming from the dynamo. This tractor was probably made before 1960 because around the 1960’s they stopped using dynamos in cars and started using alternators. So this regulator is at least 50 years old.

Thank you for watching!


Reverse Polarity Charging with CTEK Battery Charger